Day 24, Lochsa Lodge, ID to Lolo, MT

Miles – 45

Ave Riding Speed – 9-14 mph

Hours Start to Finish – 7.5

Weather – Sunny and 84

We got a late start today, but well worth it.  We thought we were up at 6:30am, not realizing that we had switched over to Mountain Time, but I guess we were up at 7:30am. When we climbed out of our tent our tenting neighbors from last night were busy packing up their gear to continue the back country motorcycle trip.

Bob and Tommy, a former air traffic controller and current truck driver, were in the midst of a 6- week adventure riding their Adventure Motorcycles through the Rocky Mountain Forestry Service roads. Really great guys with a passion for this stuff that you could hear in their voices and see in their eyes. They had stepped off their planned route due to a snow closer and happened to pass by the Lochsa Lodge to find no rooms available, but were offered the same accommodations we had. They brought out their maps, similar in nature to ours, and spread them across our shared picnic table and showed us their route and gleefully discussed their trip so far and the anticipation of the annual rally ahead. They were complimentary of our adventure and knowing what something like it takes to do.

Richard, our new friend from Kelliher, MN was out walking the grounds and stopped over to chat. We moved over to where the sun was shining to get warm. Soon I shot over to the lodge restaurant and grabbed coffee for Kim and I, plus a couple extras. Upon my return Bob and Tommy were packed up and we got a picture together and they set out down the road. Cindy, Richard’s wife dropped by wearing, “not her jammies.” she said. We all giggled and said “she looked great and does it really matter.”

We were almost loaded up and Cindy said we should join them for breakfast. We thought about our peanut butter sandwiches and then said that sounds like a good idea. With our bikes packed we leaned them back against the picnic table and walked over to the restaurant for breakfast and joined Richard, Cindy and their high school grandson, Conner. It was like sitting down with old friends. They were genuinely nice people and the conversations are easy. Before we ordered Cindy said they were buying us breakfast today. It was really sweet. I had the old standby of course; eggs, hash browns, bacon, toast and hot sauce. Kim ordered the oatmeal with huckleberries. They were really fascinating people who have seen a lot of the country. When we finished our breakfast, we said we should get going and wished them “Safe Home”, as Cindy would say. We hopped on our bikes and it was now 10:50am. It was a late started but worth every minute.

We pulled out onto Hwy 12 heading north with an eye on Lolo Pass, 12.5 miles ahead.  The 1,700-feet climb to an elevation of 5,235 feet was really one of the better uphill’s we’ve had so far. We road the gradual and steady climb for 8.5 miles and then it got steep. We switched to the “lean and push” for most of the next 4 miles. Not a bad walk up, but there was no shoulder. We could generally hear when traffic was approaching behind us so we could step off to whatever gavel shoulder we could find.

Upon reaching the to we stooped at Lolo Pass Visitors Center. There were about 20 cars in the very large parking lot and we pulled up to the log cabin complex entailing a gift shop, bathrooms, hiking/biking trails and plenty of shaded seating. Kim stepped in the gift shop and the Park Service staff said this is the first day they’ve been open in 18 months and they were very excited about it.

Kim and I stood out near the front doors by our bikes and a young man asked how far we’re going. Soon we introduced ourselves to Mango. Mango is to his last name and mine is to Motch.  A nice guy who told us about a few of his touring trips through the US and other countries. He was clean cut, well spoken and has been doing some traveling around the country. He happened to be in town to hook up with some family; mom and a couple aunts and uncles. Soon we met the whole clan and talked about life. They were a lot of fun to talk with. Our little drop-in turned out to be about an hour. Again, worth every minute.

It was 2pm and we had another 38 miles to cover so we got back on Hwy 12, heading east and now in Montana. The initial decent was very manageable for about 6 miles and then things leveled off to a very gradual elevation drop and we were now riding what used to be a forest, before the massive fires last year, but it was still beautiful. 

We followed Lolo Creak through the valley and 18 miles into Montana I heard a little pop. A few more pedal turns and I knew I had a flat. Looking down I could see it was by back tire so I signaled to Kim that I was turning around to the driveway we had just passed about 30 feet back. I got off my bike and walked to the locked log-pole gate and we leaned our bikes against it. I was walking the process through my head and then we went to work. We unloaded the bags from my bike, turned my bike upside down on the ground, pulled out my tools, spare tire tube and mini-bike pump and went to work. After removing the rear wheel, I inspected the tire and couldn’t find anything puncturing the tire. We removed the tube and then I gently ran my finger around the inside of the tire to see if I could feel anything sticking through the tire that would just end up giving my replacement turb a flat. I found nothing. I installed the new tube, we pumped it up, attached the tire back on the frame. I turned the bike over on it’s when and took it for a short spin. We were back in business. It took about 30 minutes and we were back and on the road.

15-miles further down the road and we were in Lolo, MT and pulled into the Days Inn at 6pm. We check in to our reserved room, being we’ve learned that the only way to get a room on the weekend is to reserve ahead. Our room is on the second floor so we pulled the gear off our bikes and carried them up the steps to our second-floor room. We are a little tired of the fried foods so immediately walked across the highway to the grocery store for, tuna fish, buns, miracle whip, pickles, macaroni salad, grapefruit and Kombucha. We when got back to our room it was a mad dash to opening everything and chowing down.

Then a quick shower and washing clothes, while in the shower, we settled in. We haven’t had cell service for three days and caught up with the kids and few others. Little did we know at the same time we were fixing my flat tire, my daughter Amanda and her family were on their way to the Ranch, near Garrison, MN, and they picked up a flat tire after pulling over for and emergency vehicle. After seeing the three children on the side of the road, the neighbors, and now new friends from across the highway came to the rescue and helped them change, what came to be, a difficult tire. People are awesome.

I tried getting ahold of a couple cousins of mine who live about 10 miles south of here, on our route, but wasn’t able to catch anyone or leave a message.  We’ll try them again in the morning.